At the shore, colorful puffins nest on offshore rocks. Sea stars and fascinating intertidal life are exposed by low tides. Wildflowers and shrubs bloom in the rainforests and on coastal bluffs. These and many other wonders of nature can be experienced along this beautiful stretch of Pacific coast during spring and early summer.

A wide variety of hiking trails and beaches along the coast offer access to these unique ecosystems. Many of these locations also feature historical sites including locations visited by Lewis and Clark and the Corps of Discovery nearly 200 years ago and classic lighthouses which have served the coast for over 100 years.

Here we offer some suggestions for hikes to experience the best of the season outdoors at the coast. The region's state parks and beaches offer many outstanding hiking options.

Long Beach Peninsula

You can explore a unique ecosystem of shifting dunes, grasslands, ponds, marshes and tideland forest at Leadbetter Point State Park on the northern tip of the Long Beach Peninsula. This is one of the best birdwatching locations in the West, especially during early spring and fall migrations. Several loop trails wind through dunes and shore pine forest to the Pacific Ocean on one side and Willapa Bay on the other. Moss and dune grass alternate covering the sandy forest floor. An abundant number of mushrooms make their home here in the spring. Several varieties of wildflowers and shrubs bloom in early spring and summer. The area is part of the Willapa National Wildlife Refuge. Bald eagles, herons and a variety of shorebirds are frequently seen. This is also habitat for the endangered snowy plover and nesting areas may be off limits. Bring mosquito repellent.

At the south end of the Peninsula near Ilwaco, Washington is Fort Canby State Park. Perched on a dramatic headland above crashing waves at the mouth of the Columbia River, the park includes rainforest trails, beaches and historical sites. This is the headland where the Lewis and Clark's Corps of Discovery finally reached the Pacific Ocean on their historic journey. A Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center is located here. Rainforest trails through towering Sitka spruce and western hemlock lead to two lighthouses including Cape Disappointment lighthouse (1856), the oldest functioning lighthouse on the west coast and the North Head lighthouse (1898). Woodland wildflowers and shrubs bloom throughout the spring and early summer. Deer are frequently seen along the coastal meadows. This headland was a military fortification for the entrance of the Columbia River beginning with the Civil War, and today, the park features the remains of World War II military fortifications



Oregon's North Coast

On the Oregon side at the mouth of the Columbia River, Fort Stevens State Park, features an elaborate network of trails which wind through flat tideland forest of Sitka spruce, shore pine, alder and western hemlock. The park also provides access to about three miles of beach. The north end of the beach offers excellent birdwatching and on the south end of the beach is the skeletal 1906 shipwrecked remains of the Peter Iredale.

The park is one of Oregon's best birdwatching locations, especially between the jetty and Trestle Bay on the north end of the park. Viewing platforms provide interpretive information and vantage points for birdwatching. Spring sightings can include eagles, osprey and a wide variety of coastal birds which frequent this location where the river meets the ocean. Freshwater fowl can be seen in mile long Coffenbury Lake. The park is another former military fortification for the mouth of the Columbia and several of the buildings and bunkers remain. A museum features artifacts, photos and displays of the fort's history.

The wildflowers of Saddle Mountain State Park are a unique treasure to the coast. Each spring this peak bursts forth with a dazzling array of color. The Coast Range was less effected by past Ice Age glaciations and the mountain top provided a refuge for many ancient plant species. Some of the wildflowers on Saddle Mountain are rare, endangered and unique to the region.

A short detour from the coast, Saddle Mountain State Park is seven miles off of Highway 26, about 18 miles east of Seaside. The hike is a difficult 5.2 mile round-trip which takes you through various geological and ecological layers. Beginning in thick forest, the trail ascends into grassy meadows, then volcanic "balds." Attentive hikers can identify dozens of varieties of wildflowers including wood violets, bleeding hearts, candy flower and lily-of-the-valley. At higher elevations you find fairy bells, blue iris, purple larkspur, yellow buckwheat, paintbrush, alpine lily, pink fawn lily and phlox. Crossing footbridges over ancient basalt flows and utilizing cables to pull yourself to the top, you'll surely feel on top of the world when you reach the nearly 3300 foot summit and survey the landscape below. On a clear day you can see Mount Rainier, Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams, Mount Hood and Mount Jefferson. Definitely not a sight or hike for the faint of heart, this trail is for experienced hikers and is not suitable for children. Don't pick the flowers!

You can retrace the route followed by a party from the Lewis and Clark expedition over Tillamook Head almost 200 years ago. The party set out in search of a whale they had heard had washed ashore. The trail stretches about six miles across the western edge of Tillamook Head from south Seaside to Indian Beach in Ecola State Park near Cannon Beach. Several viewpoints along the way provide dramatic views of the ocean, off shore rocks and the Tillamook Head lighthouse (1880). At about the midway point is Clark's Point of View, a location William Clark described in his journal. Most of the trail is through dense Sitka spruce, western hemlock and alder rainforest including some old growth six to eight feet wide and two hundred feet tall. A good variety of woodland and coastal wildflower species bloom through early summer. Roosevelt elk are often seen in this area. The trail gains more than 1000 feet in elevation and reveals splendid views of the north coast. The trail is moderately difficult in places and cliffsides can be dangerous. Children should be supervised and dogs kept on leashes. At low tide, the rocky shores of Indian Beach offers tidepools. Another two mile trail connects Indian Beach with the Ecola State Park viewpoint.

The beach between Chapman Point in north Cannon Beach and Silver Point south of town, leads beach explorers past several springtime wonders. Spring through early summer, huge numbers of seabirds, which spend most of their year far out to sea, come to nest on offshore rocks. Just offshore from Chapman Point are rocks aptly called the Bird Rocks. Here, dense colonies of common murres crowd the limited space. The black and white murres resemble penguins. At almost a foot and a half tall, murres are probably the largest diving bird which can still fly. They are not graceful flyers, but are adept swimmers and divers, capable of diving 500 feet. Bring binoculars and enjoy this fascinating colony of birds which numbers in the tens of thousands. Crossing Ecola Creek to the south, you quickly reach Haystack Rock. Time your beach hike with low tide and you'll be able to observe many colorful and unique intertidal species in tidepools at the base of the rock.

In this unique habitat, colorful sea stars cling to barnacle covered rocks, green sea anemones lay open like flowers and thumbnail sized hermit crabs scurry along in borrowed snail shells. The experienced tidepooler can identify dozens of varieties of living creatures including mussels, snails, chitons, limpets, sponges and boldly colored sea slugs known as nudibranchs. Never remove any of these living creatures from its home. Haystack Rock is a federally and state protected area and removal or disturbance of intertidal species is prohibited and punishable by fine.

One of the season's most colorful characters can also be seen on Haystack Rock through the summer. Tufted puffins in bright breeding plumage nest here and Haystack Rock provides probably the closest views in the Northwest of these birds with clown-like white faces, yellow eyebrow tufts and orange beaks. Several other varieties of birds are also common here. The Haystack Rock Awareness Program is often on the beach at low tide offering interpretive information, displaying intertidal creatures and providing bird spotting scopes. Continuing on your journey to the south, you will pass several other smaller rocks adjacent to Haystack Rock known as the Needles.

At the south end of the beach is Silver Point with several large off shore rocks and interesting geological features. Erosion has exposed fascinating rock formations and geological shelves. You will find pyrite, bloodstone, agates and shale. Spring beach hikers should be aware that occasionally, baby harbor seals are left on beaches by their mothers who go to gather food. Never touch or move a baby seal. Authorities should be notified so the seal may be protected from disturbance until the mother returns for it.

A number of excellent hiking trails through a variety of landscapes crisscross Oswald West State Park, about 10 miles south of Cannon Beach. There is magical old-growth forest filled with moss, ferns and towering spruce, hemlock and cedar. Elk and deer are frequently seen. Wildflowers bloom on coastal mountain side meadows before dropping dramatically into the Pacific. The Cape Falcon trail begins at the northernmost parking lot on the west side of Highway 101 in the park. The trail follows the southerly side of Cape Falcon through primarily second growth rainforest, but also some impressive old growth. The trail eventually emerges towards the western edge of the headland in hedges of salal and fragrant wild roses. From the main parking area, paved trails connect picnic areas, a small walk-in campground and Short Sand Beach, popular with surfers. The paved trail, which begins near the restrooms is great for kids or wheelchairs. You don't have to go far to experience bubbling creeks and some impressive old growth. The southern end of the park climbs Neakahnie Mountain. This is an excellent wildflower area, switchbacking through coastal meadows and climbing into mostly second growth spruce and hemlock forest. Viewpoints from the top of the mountain are impressive, offering idyllic views of the Nehalem River valley and the coastline to the south, over 1600 feet above sea level. A small gravel parking area north of the paved viewpoints marks one of the trailheads for hiking up the peak.


Tillamook & Three Capes

The Coast Range's tallest waterfall is only a 0.6 round trip hike just eight miles south of Tillamook. Munson Falls tumbles 266 feet down five tiers into old growth forest canyon. The short trail leads to a single viewpoint of the top third of this cascading waterfall.

A two and a half mile trail in Cape Lookout State Park traverses coastal rainforest to the tip of Cape Lookout, two miles out to sea and 400 feet above crashing waves. The trailhead is south of the entrance to the park's day use and camping area. Woodland wildflowers and shrubs bloom through early summer. The spruce and hemlock forest gives way to meadow at the western end of the cape with blooming wildflowers including coastal paintbrush, yarrow and fireweed. Viewpoints offer panoramic views of the coastline north and south and make excellent bird watching and whale watching locations in season. Another trail switchbacks down two miles to a beach at the southern base of the cape. If you want a longer hike, you can add 2.3 miles from the upper trailhead to the park's day use area.

These are just a few of the hiking options on the North Coast. Maps of regional trails are available at local information centers. Pick a beautiful day or be prepared for a little rain. Either way, a spring or early summer hike can be a rewarding experience giving you new perspective on the amazing natural world of the Northwest coast.

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